The Corner of Tung Wan Rd. and Church Road

(Don't forget to check out the destination guide addendum to this post, which takes you beyond the food to some other facets of Cheung Chau you can check out!)

On weekends, the corner of Tung Wan Street and Church Road is a bustling place on Cheung Chau island, and for good reason, there are a handful of great mom and pop shops selling some pretty interesting snacks and desserts here, not to mention the East Lake Restaurant is right there, and so is the main beach of the island.

Recently opened near the corner of Tung Wan and Church is this small shop that sells just one thing only - home-made deep-fried-before-your-eyes potato chips.

But the kicker for these self-proclaimed "Crazy Jack Potato Giant Chips" is the fact that they're not technically "chips" after all. You can peak at them doing some sort of handy-work on each individual potato with a knife, and then another employee pokes a stick from one end of the potato through to the other in a fancy feat spiraling the potato onto the stick. Once fried, you're free to pepper on any condiment your heart so desires, from salt to curry and everything in between! At this time these works of aesthetically pleasing Crazy Jack Potato Chips are pretty expensive (13 HK), considering it's just a potato after all.


If you're not into aesthetic novelties, then check out the mom and pop shop right next door - 新照記小食店 (san jiu gei siu sihk dihm) - which has got all the characteristically Hong Kong snacks and sweets.


This is a grass jelly with sago dessert (涼粉椰汁西米露 leuhng fan ye jap sai mai louh). Really delicious. I'm quite a fan of grass jelly, with its soothing texture and its chilling taste - its Chinese translates literally as chilled powder. And how could you go wrong pouring coconut juice onto any dessert? Truly fantastic, especially for a hot day, which is perfect considering that the beach is just a minute walk away! The mochis are really tasty too, with a variety of flavors including egg-milk (奶黃 laaih wohng), sesame (芝麻 ji mah） and peanut-sesame (花生芝麻 fa sang ji mah).

And then around the corner next to this shop on Church Road is yet another mom and pop shop selling Japanese style snacks. It doesn't seem to have a name other than what it sells: 日本紅豆餅 Japanese red-bean cakes. Just look for the red sign.

As for the main course, I highly recommend going diagonally across from this hustling and bustling corner (back towards the pier) to East Lake Restaurant (東湖菜館), the best food I've had on the island out of the several I've tried.

西蘭花帶子 Fried Scallops with Broccoli

薑蔥田雞 Fried Frog with Ginger and Spring Onion

招牌香妃雞 Boiled Chicken with[sic] Chinese Style

These are all standard Cantonese dishes, so there's nothing special to report about them. But wow, if you want standard Cantonese dishes done exceptionally well, eat here. Normally I'm not even a fan of scallops, definitely not frog either. But everything was in perfect proportion, down to the fragrantly pleasant scallions topped with mushrooms and a salty-sweet sauce over the hearty stalks of broccoli. The fried frog had a subtle charred taste that went especially well with the hint of ginger. As for the chicken, which is their specialty, it was a tad on the dry side but actually the natural juices of the chicken along with the special 香妃 (heung fei) cooking method - which I'm not sure exactly what it is, but I know it's special!) easily made for the best Cantonese-style chicken I've ever had.

Some of you may be wondering about the conspicuous absence of any seafood dishes, which of course Cheung Chau cuisine is known for. Oh well, there's always next time for me. But the interesting part is that you can go on over to the wet market yourself and buy your own "swimming fish" (游水魚 a Cantonese expression for extremely fresh fish) and other seafood, and then bring it to the restaurant where they'll prepare it for you. If you want to skip this step, you still have to either call or stop in earlier to let them know you want seafood because they don't keep any at their shop.


長洲
東灣路85號
Cheung Chau island
85 Tung Wan Road
29813869



So while I'd recommend exploring the many quaint little restaurants and shops on your own in Cheung Chau, I have to warn that I had a bad food experience at 海龍王海鮮大排檔 and one mediocre food experience at another ocean-side restaurant. This is not to say that the ocean-side restaurants are bad; I've been to a few good ones. But I personally think that if you want to go somewhere that you can't go wrong, head over to East Lake Restaurant, and check out the snack shops around it while you're at it.

長洲 Cheung Chau Addendum - destination guide #1

Cheung Chau is one of my favorite places in all of Hong Kong. It's one of the two most popular small island getaways that local Hongkies, expats, and tourists alike love to go to, the other island being Lamma Island. But to me, Cheung Chau is far more interesting because beneath the slower-paced village-like persona of this fishing village lies a rich local culture andhistory, with fascinating lore and legends of pirates, suicides, a Qing dynasty broad sword, a 3000 years old rock carving, and other little things to satiate those with quirky tastes for stories and historical anecdotes. Plus, the beaches aren't bad, the hiking is pleasant and relaxing against a backdrop of rolling green hills and the soothing ocean waves, the much-adored banyan trees are inspiring, and of course the food is great. Without further ado, on to the historical gems of Cheung Chau!

Historical Sites

- myself with broad sword at Pak Tai 北帝 temple (left)
- a 3000 years old rock carving (right)

Pak Tai 北帝 temple was constructed in 1783, and is most known for the fact that the famous Bun Festival is held annually in front of it. What few people know is that contained in this temple is a sword dating back to dynastic China (Qing dynasty perhaps), which is not publicly on display. Luckily, I gained access through a connection I had with my Cantonese teacher. As for the 3000 years old rock carving, few people know or care about it, which is understandable since it really is unimpressive. What interests me about it though is the fact that it was ludicrously cited by Gavin Menzies, author of 1421: The Year China Discovered The World, who claimed that this was a record commemorating the circumnavigation of the globe by admiral Zheng He 鄭和 and his fleet. After reading his interesting book, I came here in excitement, only to find this weathered artistic inscription.

If you're not as interested in the obscure historical bits like I am, then try to come on the 8th day of the 4th month of the lunar calendar for the Bun Festival, which is brimming with rural Chinese culture and tradition. Here you see them setting up for a tradition whereby contestants climb the mountain of buns to see who can snatch one from the highest point. They've only restarted this annual tradition lately because of a serious accident some decades ago, so take advantage of this and check it out!

The second popular historical attraction is the cave where 19th century pirate Cheung Po Tsai 張保仔 kept his treasure. Although I didn't find any remaining treasure in this somewhat deep and long cave that exits at a different point from its entrance, this doesn't mean that you might not find something! Just remember to bring a flashlight if you don't want to get stuck using the LED of your cell phone, or the flash from your camera.





Natural Sites
This rock which strikingly resembles a rabbit and some easter eggs reminds me of some certain emails I've gotten from evangelists. Here's another funky-looking rock that resembles another animal.




In fact, the whole island has some pretty interesting rock formations. But if you're not one with a wild imagination, hikes to hill-top peaks provide some nice rewarding views, like the one in the photo below.



And lastly about Cheung Chau, a good deal of Hongkies like to get away from the hustle and bustle by coming here, sometimes staying a night and making a weekend trip out of it. One thing you could do is a Hong Kong style barbecue, which is like campfire style except you're going all out, because the smores are just the finale! In this picture, we're at the grocery market to buy the soon-to-be-bbq'd food.



HK style BBQ isn't something you can only do at Cheung Chau, there are pits set up pervasively throughout Hong Kong. But it's really nice if you can do it at Cheung Chau, with its relaxing quaint backdrop.

To get to Cheung Chau, take a ferry from Central. The fast ferry is air-conditioned and will get you there in half an hour. The slow ferry will get you there in about an hour. I actually prefer the slow ferry because the wind refreshingly reminds me that I'm at sea, providing a more naturally pleasant journey than the fast ferry. Here's the schedule.

To learn more about Cheung Chau:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheung_Chau

Pepperoni's Pizza Cafe

中玩(蘇豪)
士丹敦街８號
8 Staunton St.
Central (Soho), Hong Kong
MTR: Central, up mid-levels escalators


After having savory meal after savory meal of dim sum and cha chaan tengs, you might develop a craving for some good ol' greasy, cheese-ilicious Western food. What better cheesy favorite is there than the delicious potato skins!

Potato Skins

Let me tell you, these tasted just as good as they look! My friend said there wasn't enough guacamole, and I've just noticed from the picture that it's missing bacon. But it was really good on its own merit that I didn't even notice it seems.

Pepperoni's Pizza Cafe had some pretty interesting fusion pizza choices to dazzle the eye. Of them, we had two of Chinese persuasion and Indian persuasion.

Tandoori Chicken Pizza

This Tandoori Chicken Pizza certainly looks quite enticing!

Peking Duck Pizza

And this Peking Duck Pizza looks, special! Aside from the novelty of these flavors, these pizzas were just good. Not orgasmically amazing or anything. Just good. In fact, the novelty seemed to be mostly just the concepts. The tandoori pizza didn't have an adequately strong tandoori taste (not enough kick), and neither did the Peking duck pizza have an adequately strong Peking duck flavor. But then again, if I want these authentic flavors I suppose I shouldn't expect them from a pizza. Nonetheless, to give credit to these innovations, it was a tasty first to have the spicy zing of tandoori and the sweet duck baked with cheese on a pie.

The Tempura Chicken Fillets were a disappointment. They tasted like your plain chicken strips fried with plain batter making for a very plain taste. Although I admit, that the salad setup is not only aesthetically pleasant, but a good somewhat-healthier item balancing against the plethora of fried (but oh so delicious) foods here. They seem to give this salad setup with many items (except the pizzas).

Also recommended:
- quesadillas (they have veggie and chicken) [甚麼是quesadillas?]
- the salads are very large portions

Generally Pepperoni's is a very nice restaurant situated in the buzzingly metropolitan area known as SoHo (south of Hollywood Road), where you can peruse the diverse array of restaurants including Thai, Nepalese, Italian, French, Chinese, and even Mexican. So do check this area out, although be prepared to pay more. As part of the general Westernized atmosphere of this district you can also expect to pay typical Western prices.

同心泰國菜店 Ruam Jai Thai Restaurant

Ruam Jai Thai Restaurant is located in 九龍城 gau lohng sihng, a district that has a distinctive feel owing to the facts that (A) this used to be an industrial area and (B) because of its proximity to the old Kai Tak airport, no real estate companies were allowed to partake on their money-making ventures in building sky-high high-rises (like the ones popping up like daisies throughout the rest of Hong Kong). There's definitely a grittier blue-collar atmosphere you sense walking around 九龍城, and the blocks around Ruam Jai make up a "Little Thailand" of sorts, with Thai grocery marts and restaurants populating the area. Ruam Jai means "together" and "with one heart" (ie united). So without further ado then, let's together appreciate Ruam Jai.


Charcoal grilled Pork Cheek
This is a common Thai dish. If you love juicy succulent barbecued pork, you'll love this. Have it with sticky rice and dip it in the explosively flavorful and spicy fish sauce you'll have a filling and tasty treat!

Tum Yum Goong (a spicy soup with prawns)
My first trip to Thailand was actually with a Hong Kong tour group in 2003, and the tour guide got a great kick out of teaching us Thai by twisting the words to resemble amusing Cantonese phrases. "Yum Goong" (yam gung) in Cantonese means tragic, and he told us that Tum Yum Goong was tragically fire-your-tongue spicy. That's a pretty accurate way to describe Tum Yum Goong. This here Tum Yum Goong, unfortunately wasn't served in the flaming hot pot that's supposed to keep it continuously spicy hot, but it still wasn't too bad as it retained its spicy salty-sweet and sour zing.

Steamed Fish with Plum Soup on Stove
Another uniquely Thai prepared item, this steamed fish continuously simmers in a fragrantly flavorful soup, which should ignite your tastebuds more than the Cantonese style of fish which relies more on subtle flavors.

Fresh Mango with Sticky Rice and Coconut Cream
You probably wouldn't have thought of eating rice with your mango, but this combination is surprisingly really good. Sticky rice has a stronger consistency than normal rice, but since it's been coated in a sugary sweet Coconut milk it can be smoothly combined with the soft juiciness of the mango, making for one of the simplest, but greatest tasting desserts you'll have!

Generally, you can't go wrong with Ruam Jai. It's really good food. But personally I felt the flavors weren't as vibrant and didn't ignite my tastebuds as much as the Thai food that spoiled me in Bangkok. In any case, if you're looking to feed your craving for Thai food while you're in Hong Kong, this is not a bad place to go.



To get there, take the 5C bus from the Star Ferry terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui, or from the Hung Hum train station terminal, and get off at the Regal Oriental Hotel bus stop (富豪東方酒店). Be warned, however, Kowloon City may geographically be pretty close, but expect 30-50 minutes to get here from Tsim Sha Tsui, depending on traffic.

G/F, 5 Tak Ku Ling Road, Kowloon City
九龍城打鼓嶺道5號地下